Guimarães Castle, Portugal, March 2018

We made a day trip to Guimarães from Braga.  This beautiful city is a historically significant place, known as “the birthplace of Portugal” because Afonso Henriques, Portugal’s first king, was born here.  The castle, though, has a history older than even the founding of the country.

Guimaraes Castle

Guimarães was founded as Vimaranes in the 9th century.  It may have been named for the first ruler of the County of Portugal, Vimara Peres, who ruled the county from this area.  There’s a beautiful statue of Peres at the Cathedral in Porto.

Statue at Se
Vimara Peres, the first ruler of the County of Portugal

In the 10th century,  Countess Mumadona Dias, the most powerful woman in the Northwest Iberian Peninsula, ruled the County of Portugal from Guimarães.  A devout woman, she had he Monastery of Guimarães built.  To protect the monastery from raids by the Vikings and the Moors, she had a castle built on the hill overlooking the monastery in the place where the Castle of Guimarães now stands.

Mumadona- Guimaraes
Mumadona Dias, builder of Guimarães Castle

In 1096 Alfonso VI, King of León and Castile, gave the County of Portugal to Henry of Burgundy as dowry for his marriage to Alfonso’s daughter, Teresa.  Henry expanded and remodeled the castle.  It was here that his son, Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal, was born.

The castle was remodeled once more at the end of the 13th century, this time by King Dinis.  This is the castle that exists today.  Over the next several centuries, though, the castle fell into ruin until, in 1836, a plan was made to demolish the castle and use its stone to repave roadways.  Fortunately, the plan was never carried out.  In 1910 the Castle of Guimarães was declared a National Monument and in 1937 the first of several restoration projects was started.

Castle Exterior 2
Castle exterior

The castle sits high above the city and provides some great views of the surrounding area.  It was built as a military fortification, and withstood several sieges during its early history.  The green space around the castle would not have existed during its use as a fortress; all of the trees and shrubbery would have been removed to eliminate hiding places for enemy invaders.

Castle Tower and Cityscape
One of the castle’s eight towers

There are eight towers surrounding a central keep.  The keep would have been where the castle’s owner would live.  The walls and towers would provide a shield for them from any attacks.

Castle Walls
The castle wall

The castle is adjacent to two other national monuments- The Igreja de São Miguel do Castelo and the Palace of the Dukes of Braganza.  The palace can be seen from the castle walls.

Braganza Palace from Castle
Braganza Palace seen from the castle wall

The Igreja de São Miguel do Castelo is a tiny church in the shadows of the castle.  Legend has it that this is where Afonso Henriques was baptized.  That may be stretching history a bit as the first reference to the church wasn’t until the 13th century.  A restoration project at the end of the 19th century took place and then, in the 20th century, several more projects were carried out to restore the church to its original medieval character.

Baptismal Chapel
Igreja de São Miguel do Castelo

The area of the castle, the palace and the church are part of the historical center of Guimarães and is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  There’s a lot of history here in the Birthplace of Portugal.

 

 

Mount Rushmore, South Dakota, 1971

When I was eleven years old I went on a 50-mile hike in the Black Hills of South Dakota with my boy scout troop.  In addition to a week of hiking and camping we took a drive through Customer State Park, where we saw  bison and antelope, we took a swim in the pool at Hot Springs, we visited Badlands National Park, and we stopped at Wall Drug, famous for offering free ice water to visitors (we saw a Wall Drug sign in Amsterdam, Holland), and we made a trip to Mount Rushmore.  Forty-six years later I still think of the trip as a great experience.

It’s also when I received my first camera.  My parents bought a Kodak Instamatic camera for me similar to this one.  I had a couple 126 film cartridges.  Not really knowing what we were buying, one of the rolls was slide film.  Most of the photos were not very good.  This photo was scanned from the original slide.  After forty-six years it took a lot of work to clean up the scratches and dust, but it’s not a bad photo.  Let’s just say it’s my first successful attempt to document my travels.

Mount Rushmore Ektachrome 100

Porto, Portugal, March 2018

Porto is Portugal’s second largest city and has long been an important part of the country’s history.  There have been people here since the time of the Celtiberians, and the Roman name Portus Cale gave Portugal its name.  Porto is an interesting, bustling city with a lot to do.  We spent two days in the city on our visit to Portugal.

We stayed outside the historic center of the city because driving in Porto is not for the faint of heart.  Our hotel, Hotel Porto Nobre, was a beautiful old house north of the city and with convenient access to the historic city center.

Hotel Porto Nobre

The purpose of our visit was to decide where we want to live when we relocate to Portugal.  It was pretty evident that Porto was not what we’re looking for.  Porto is a large and busy city and we’re looking for a smaller place with a much slower pace.  That being said, we enjoyed our time in the city.

The historic center of Porto is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and most of what we wanted to see and do are in the city center.  We took the bus from the hotel to the Avenida dos Aliados, generally regarded as the heart of the city.  It’s a beautiful place to start our tour of Porto, with magnificent mansions and buildings lining the avenue.  The north end of the square is topped by the beautiful City Hall.

Camara Municipal de Porto

Praça da Liberdade sits at the southern end of the avenue.  This is a great place for photos of the avenue.  A statue of Dom Pedro IV is quite beautiful as well. The architecture and the statue give an old European feel to the square.

Praca da Liberdade

We decided to have lunch at one of the many restaurants that line the avenue.  This was our chance to try Porto’s most famous delicacy, the francesinha. Frequently mentioned as one of the best sandwiches in the world, the “little frenchie” has ham, sausage, beef and cheese, all smothered in a secret sauce.  This is not a sandwich you can eat with your fingers.  It is quite good.

Francesinha

After the francesinha, we needed a long walk.  Our first stop was São Bento Railway Station, one of the most beautiful railway stations in the world.  The interior is covered with about 20,000 azulejos painted by Jorge Colaço between 1905 and 1916.  The azulejos depict events from Portugal’s history.

Sao Bento Interior 2

Livraria Lello, the famous bookstore, one of the world’s most beautiful booksellers,was our  next stop.  It is a magnificent work of art.  The exterior is art nouveau.  The interior is highlighted by the staircase that reportedly was the inspiration for the moving staircases in J.K. Rowlings’s Hogwarts.  Unfortunately, the interior is so crowded that it’s difficult to move, much less enjoy the beauty of the place.

Lello Interior 2

Just up the street from Lello is Igreja dos Clérigos and the famous Torre dos Clérigos. Designed by Italian architect Nicolau Nasoni, the baroque tower was added to the Igreja dos Clérigos between 1754 and 1763.  Nasoni, who designed numerous works in Porto during his 50 years in the city, had designed the original church, which was built between 1933 and 1750.

The tower is over 75 meters tall and provides spectacular vistas for visitors who climb the 225 steps to the top.  This view of the tower was taken the next day from the Cathedral.

Clerigos Tower skyline

Our second day began at Avenida dos Aliados and breakfast at Café Guarany.  It’s a beautiful art nouveau café that opened in 1933.  We had a great breakfast there while avoiding the crowds at Porto’s other famous café, Majestic.

Cafe Guarany

After breakfast we took a walk to Porto’s famous market, Mercado Bolhão.  Our timing was right.  The market has been moved to a new location so the old location can be renovated. Yes, the old location was a bit decrepit, but I liked the feel of the place.

 

After the market we stopped at the Cathedral.  Construction was begun in the 12th century and was continued until its completion in the 16th century.  That probably explains why it has several different architectural styles, including a Gothic chapel and cloister, a Romanesque rosette window and nave, and a Baroque loggia designed by Nicolau Nasoni.  There’s also a statue of Vimara Peres, a 9th century nobleman who defeated the Moors and was the first ruler of the County of Portugal.

Se de Oporto

Our next destination was Vila Nova de Gaia, famous for its port wine caves.  We were looking at Vila Nova de Gaia as a potential retirement spot because of its vicinity to Porto and all of that city’s amenities.  We took the metro across the Dom Luis I bridge, one of the most beautiful bridges in the world.  It’s a two level bridge, one for automobile and pedestrian traffic, and one level for trains, and was designed by a disciple of Gustave Eiffel.

We walked through the part of town above the waterfront for a while and really didn’t like it as a potential home.  We probably didn’t give Vila Nova de Gaia a fair chance; it’s actually quite large and I’m sure that there are parts of the city that would appeal to us, but we just didn’t connect with the city like we did with some of the other places we visited.

We made our way to the Teleférico de Gaia, an aerial gondola, and had a drink at the bar before taking a ride down to the waterfront.  The views from the teleférico were awesome, but the waterfront was underwhelming.  We toured one of the port wine cellars, had lunch at one of the restaurants, and then road the teleférico to the top so we could ride the metro back to Porto.

Vila Nova de Gaia

We made our way to the Igreja de São Francisco, our final destination.  The gothic exterior of this 13th century church is misleading.  Inside, over 120 pounds of gold gilt cover virtually every surface.  Photography of the interior isn’t allowed, but I found a photo to accompany my exterior photo.

We enjoyed our time in this great city.  It’s bustling city with a long history and plenty to keep you interested.  Our visit just touched the surface and I hope that we’ll be able to spend more time in Porto in the future.

 

Viana do Castelo, Portugal, March 2018

A blanket of fog lay over Viana do Castelo when we arrived, blotting out any chance of seeing the city’s most famous landmark, the beautiful Basílica de Santa Luzia.  Even so, we lost no time in falling in love with the city.  After the hustle and bustle of Porto, the relaxed, easy-going atmosphere of Viana do Castelo was a welcome change.

We stayed at Hotel Jardim.  The building began life as a 19th century townhouse before its conversion to a hotel.  Our room was large and had wonderful floor-to-ceiling French windows that, when opened, gave us wonderful views down several of the narrow lanes of the old city.

Street Scene
View from our room

While we only spent a day in Viana do Castelo it quickly became one of our favorite cities.  Viana has been called the Jewel of the Costa Verde, with good reason.  There’s been a settlement here since the times of the Celtiberians, as witnessed by the ruins on the mountain, just behind the Basilica.  It’s been an important seaport since the 13th century, when it’s primary industry was fishing.  In the 16th and 17th centuries, the city became Portugal’s largest seaport, when sugar and gold from Brazil began making its way to Portugal.  Its importance as a seaport may have faded since then, but its former glory is evident in the manors and mansions that line Viana do Castelo’s main streets.

Viana do Castelo
Viana do Castelo

It’s a walker-friendly city, with lots of narrow little lanes to explore.  We spent a lot of time wandering the streets, making stops along the way, depending on what interested us.  Our first stop was the Sé, or Cathedral, of Viana do Castelo.  It’s a beautiful 15th century Romanesque structure.  The twin crenellated towers, the portal depicting six of the apostles, and the rosette make for a beautiful exterior.  The interior is quite pretty well.  Viana do Castelo was an important seaport, and its citizens wanted the church to reflect that importance.  One of the treasures inside the cathedral is a model of a sailing ship, which harkens back to Viana do Castelo’s days of glory. It’s not every cathedral that has a ship.

Cathedral
Cathedera of Viana do Castelo

Just a short walk from the Sé takes you to Praça da República, the heart of Viana’s historic center.  Besides the cafés and shops that line the square, there are three interesting 16th century structures.  The old Council Chamber is an imposing fortress-like structure with a crenellated roof.  The front is opened by three arches topped with three windows, all of which are topped by the city’s coats of arms.

Old Council Chamber
Old Council Chamber

The Casa da Misericórdia, or almshouse, was designed by João Lopes the Younger.  The renaissance façade has caryatids, six on each floor, supporting the floor above.  It’s quite beautiful.

Almshouse
Almshouse

The renaissance fountain in the center of the square was designed by João Lopes the Older.  It’s an elegant structure topped with a cross of the Order of Christ.  For several centuries the fountain was a primary source of water for the town’s citizens.

Old Fountain
Old Fountain

Wandering the streets can have unexpected benefits.  Just a three-minute walk from our hotel we came upon Ribeira Brewers.  Hmmm.  A brewer…  We stepped inside for a drink and found it to be a wonderful little pub, with a nice selection of craft beer.  The owner was very helpful and I had my first Portuguese craft brew, Letra F.  It was good and I was happy.  If we lived in Viana do Castelo Ribeira Brewers would be a great hangout.

Colorful Street Scene
Colorful Street

The day was winding down and it was time to find a place to eat.  I had done some research and had selected Zefa Carqueja as our dinner spot.  This restaurant was supposed to have the best barbeque chicken and ribs in the north of Portugal.  It probably does, but we’ll never know.  When we got to the restaurant, there was about fifty people lined up at the counter waiting to place an order, and the only orders taken at that time were take out.  Well crap.  Time for the backup plan.  Just a few feet down the street was another highly rated restaurant, Taberna do Valentim.  This was what we were looking for.  We had a nice quiet dinner of grilled fish and vegetables and split half a bottle of wine.  It was another one of those unplanned moments that worked out for the best, and a beautiful end to the day.

Viana do Castelo was one of our favorite places in Portugal.  We were there for only one day and we only touched the surface of the town.  There’s so much to do- museums, historical places, two Blue Star beaches just minutes away, and plenty of great food to be had- that we didn’t get to do.  But we had achieved our goal of getting a feel of what it would be like to live in Viana do Castelo.  We found Viana to be a beautiful city with a relaxed atmosphere and we look forward to our next visit.

Waterfront
Viana do Castelo Riverfront

Portuguese Pavement, March 2018

I love the calçadas Portuguesa, or Portuguese pavement that is so common throughout the country.  The tradition goes back to Roman times when the Romans used stone laid in patterns to pave roads, plazas and even floors.  The Roman mosaic style of pavement can be seen in Conimbriga and on the ancient road turned walking trail located at Alqueidão da Serra.

The years of Moorish occupation had an influence on the pavement as well.  Many of the calçadas Portuguesa feature geometric patterns and designs that show the Arabic influence.

Several earthquakes in the 16th century and then again with the 1755 earthquake that destroyed much of Lisbon, were great drivers for the use of Portuguese pavement.  Many of the streets were paved this way after the 1755 earthquake.  General Eusébio Furtado used Portuguese pavement to transform the grounds of São Jorge Castle into walking places using the mosaic pavement.  He was also responsible for “Mar Largo” at Praça do Rossio, as well as Camões Square, Principe Square and Town Hall Square, all in Lisbon.

Rossio Square
Mar Largo, or Open Sea at Praça do Rossio, Lisbon

The stone is predominantly limestone quarried from the Aire and Candeeiros mountains of Portugal.  Black, white, grey and occasionally red stones are commonly used.  While geometric patterns are most common there are examples of the stones being used to display floral patterns, symbols and even portraits.  Most of what we saw was geometric patterns.

Praca Sousa Oliveira
Praca Sousa Oliveira, Nazaré

Much like Portugal’s azelejos, the stonework has become a part of the cultural identity. Unfortunately, the future of the art form is at risk.  It takes years to learn to cut and lay the stones and there are less expensive forms of pavement available.  I hope that the cultural value of the Portuguese pavement outweighs the economic cost and the tradition continues.

Coimbra Sidewalk
Rua Ferreira Borges in Coimbra

Ponte de Lima, Portugal, March 2018

The little town of Ponte de Lima was not on our original itinerary, but after several people we met on our trip suggested we make it a stop on our tour, we did just that.  A half hour drive from Viana do Castelo, the town with a population of 2,800 was a nice stop on our way to Braga.

Ponte de Lima is one of the oldest towns in Portugal, beginning life as a Roman settlement on the road between Braga and Santiago de Campostela, Spain.  A popular spot with Portuguese tourists, the village is full of charming shops and restaurants. Historical towers and walls are integrated into the newer buildings.

Ponte de Lima Main Drag

The most famous attraction, and namesake of the town, is the ponte, an ancient stone bridge that crosses the Ria Lima. The bridge was extensively rebuilt in the 14th century but the north end is still of Roman origin.

On the bridge
Ponte Romana

The local legend is that when the Romans first reached Ria Lima they mistook it for the River Lethe, the river of forgetfulness and one of the five rivers of Hades.  The soldiers, afraid that the water would cause them to lose all memory, refused to cross the river.  The Roman commander, frustrated that the river was impeding his military campaign, rode across the river.  The soldiers were not convinced until the General, now on the opposite bank of the river, called each of the men by name.  Today the legend is celebrated by a display of statues along the river banks- the troops on the near bank and the general on the opposite side of the river.

Ponte Romana
The Roman troops waiting to cross the river

Another interesting little legend is the story pictured in azelejos on the Torre that now houses the Tourist Information Center.  The azelejo is titled “Cabras São Senhor!” (They’re goats, M’lord!)  The story goes that King Afonso Henriques, Portugal’s first king, mistook a herd of goats for Moors and nearly attacked the herd.  Fortunately for the goats, the king called off the attack once he realized his mistake.

Ponte de Lima Torre
Torre with azelejo “Cabras São Senhor!”

There’s a lot of artwork, including several sculptures like this one celebrating folk life.

Folk Art Monument
Folk Life Monument

Walking through town is like walking through a park.  There’s a lot of green space, monuments, and artwork.  We spent time exploring the streets and stopped for coffee and cake in one of the cafés in town.  It seemed that everywhere we turned we found another beautiful street.

Could we live in Ponte de Lima?  Definitely, yes.  For such a small town there are a lot of things to see and do.  The one drawback would be that we’d have to drive more, as amenities are a little more limited than in larger cities. We enjoyed the short time we spent in Ponte de Lima and have this fantastic little town in our top three of places we’d like to live in Portugal.

Aveiro, Portugal, March 2018

Aveiro was one of my favorite stops on our visit to Portugal.  It’s a beautiful city with a long history.  It also has a lively feel, which I think can be at least partly attributed to the University.

We stayed at the Suites and Hostel Cidade Aveiro, a beautiful little hotel next to the Aveiro Museum and just a few minutes walk from the canals. It was a great location for exploring Aveiro on foot.

Aveiro is known for its canals, on which moliceiros, formerly used for harvesting seaweed, now provide tours of the city.  Once a thriving seaport, 16th and 17th century storms blocked Aveiro’s access to the Atlantic Ocean.  Access to the ocean has since been restored and the city is once again an important seaport.

Moliceiros

There were a  lot of things to see and do and we didn’t let periods of rain stop us.  Next door to our hotel was the Mosteiro de Jesus, the beautiful 15th century convent where Princess Santa Joana spent the last years of her life.  It’s now the Museu de Aveiro and home to the princess’s tomb.

Museu de Aveiro

Next to the convent is the Sé, or cathedral, of Aveiro.  The 15th century baroque church is quite beautiful and has been a Portuguese National Monument since 1996.  We spent quite a bit of time exploring the church, its bookstore, and the incredible cemetery behind the cathedral.

Se de Aveiro

As I said, Aveiro is a beautiful city.  Like a lot of Portuguese cities, Aveiro has some great displays of azulejos.  A prime example is the estação, or train station, of Aveiro.  Opened in 1916, the station is covered with the famous blue tiles, which display scenes from around the Aveiro region.  It’s undergoing a renovation, but it’s still quite a sight.

Estacao de Aveiro 3

There are also very nice art nouveau examples throughout the city.  This building was across the street from our hotel, and has some beautiful tile work as well.

Art Nouveau building

Another Portuguese architectural tradition I really like is the use of patterned stone to pave roads and sidewalks.  Known as calçada Portuguesa, the tradition goes back to Roman times and is common throughout the country.  Praça da República is a great example of the art of the pavement.

Praca da Republica

There are a lot of beautiful parks in the city as well.  Parque Dom Pedro Infante, or the City Park, is a great place for a walk.  It has a lot of interesting things to see as well as duck ponds, benches and walking paths.  Ann Marie took this beautiful photo.

Parque Dom Pedro

There’s a lot of street art in Aveiro as well.  Graffiti and street art are common in cities throughout Portugal.  Here’s an example from near the Aveiro train station.

Street Art

We really enjoyed our time in Aveiro.  It was one of our top stops in Portugal.  While the canal area is quite touristy, most of Aveiro is quite nice.  It’s very walkable, with lots of nice restaurants, shops and things to do.  It’s just a few minutes from a couple beaches and less than an hour from Porto or Coimbra.  And, to top it off, it has some spectacular sunsets…

Sunset on Canal

Flor da Laranja, Lisbon, March 2018

On our last night in Portugal we had the pleasure of dining at Flor da Laranja, a Moroccan restaurant in the Bairro Alto district of Lisbon.

Morocco and Portugal have a history that goes back to the eighth century.  Moorish influence can be seen in architecture and art (Portugal’s famous azulejo tiles are of Moorish origin) and heard in place names throughout the country.  Despite this history, Moroccan restaurants are relatively rare in Portugal.

We asked our hotel to make reservations at the restaurant, which was fortunate, because without a reservation you will not get in.  The owner keeps the door locked and you must ring the doorbell to get in.  If you don’t have a reservation, she turns you away.  There was never more than three groups dining at one time, which allowed for a very personal and intimate experience.

Stepping out of the night and into the restaurant was our first indication that this would be a unique dining experience.  The interior is bright, with lots of flowers and candles, and Moorish-influenced art and furniture.  Moroccan music added to the vibrant atmosphere.

Flor da Laranja
Flor da Laranja

Flor da Laranja is truly a one man- or in this case, one woman show.  The owner, Rabea Esserghini, does it all, from waiting on the tables, to cooking the food, to answering the door.  I asked her about doing everything herself and she replied that it’s not much different from cooking dinner for her family.  A native of Casablanca, she loves sharing her country’s food with her guests.

And the food is really good.  We started with a glass of white vinho verde, or green wine.  The wine gets its name from the fact that it’s made from young grapes, not from its color.  It’s a bit sweet and slightly bubbly.  With dinner Sra. Esserghini recommended a bottle of rosé vinho verde, which was very good.

For the entrees, I chose a stuffed pepper and Ann Marie chose chicken with preserved lemons.  There were several small plates of eggplant, spinach, chickpeas and potatoes, which were all very good.  Sra. Esserghini made sure I didn’t forget about the sauce from the pepper, actually scooping it up and pouring it over the pepper.  She was right.  The sauce was awesome.

We enjoyed our dining experience at Flor da Laranja.  The food was outstanding and it’s obvious that Sra. Esserghini loves to share her culture and cuisine with her customers.  If you’re in Lisbon I recommend you make Flor da Laranja a stop on your journey.  But don’t forget the reservation.

 

 

Portugal, March 2018

We had an ulterior motive for visiting Portugal.  We are considering retiring there. Our trip included meetings with an immigration attorney and a solicitor who has experience with helping expats immigrate to Portugal, but most of our time was exploring the country and trying to get a feel of what it’s like to live there.

There’s a lot to recommend a retirement in Portugal.  First, let’s get the basics out of the way.  Portugal is inexpensive.  According to Numbeo, a website that compares cost of living data from around the world, the cost of living in Portugal is over 30% less than the United States.  Our retirement nest egg will go much farther in Portugal than in the United States.

Healthcare in Portugal is good yet inexpensive.  Citizens and residents can take advantage of the national healthcare system at little or no cost.  In addition, there is private healthcare and insurance for those who choose this option.  I received a quote for private health insurance in Portugal.  By comparison, the cost for my wife and myself was about $1,400 per year.  That’s about what we would pay for health insurance in the United States per month.  I could never afford to retire in the United States, but with the national health system and private health insurance in Portugal, retirement becomes a possibility.

Portugal is quite safe as well.  Violent crime is very low in the country.  They’re ranked number three on the Global Peace Index.

Now for the good stuff.  Portugal is a beautiful country, full of historical and cultural places to explore.  Their history goes back many thousands of years and everywhere you look there are monuments and museums honoring their history.  From cave paintings to Celtiberian ruins to Roman bridges, history is everywhere.  A beautiful example of this is the Carmo Convent in Lisbon, built in the 14th century.

Carmo Convent
Carmo Convent, as seen from the Santa Justa Lift.

The convent was heavily damaged in the earthquake of 1755, which destroyed much of Lisbon.  Rather than tear the convent down and build a replacement, portions of the structure were rebuilt, with the arches left as a monument to the earthquake.  Today the convent houses an archeological museum and the arches are evidence of the earthquake.

Art is everywhere.  In Portugal, you don’t have to visit a museum to see a beautiful work of art.  Whether it’s a statue in a roundabout, azulejos on the side of a building, the painted prows of Aveiro’s moliceiros or even graffiti on an old wall, the Portuguese people value art.

Santa Joanna Statue
Santa Joana statue, Aveiro

The weather is very good.  While it rains a lot in the north of Portugal during the winter, we still enjoyed the weather.  Temperatures were in the 50s day and night and about half the days were rain free, with most of the remaining days experienced intermittent rain.  By comparison, lows in North Carolina were in the 20s and 30s, and it actually snowed one day.

The food in Portugal is great.  Half of Portugal’s border is coastline so, naturally, seafood is a big part of the national cuisine but no matter where you are you’ll find excellent food in Portugal. .  Each region has its specialties- ovos moles in Aveiro or francesinhas in Porto, for example.  Fresh fish, meat and vegetables can be had at the groceries or markets and wine is exceptional and inexpensive.

Francesinha AM
Porto’s famous Francesinha

The one negative, I guess, is that gasoline is very expensive.  That cost can be offset by the fact that most of the cities we visited were very walker friendly or had excellent public transportation.  Portugal also has an extensive train and bus system, so you can get anywhere in the country at a reasonable price using public transportation.

Portugal has been singled out as a great place to retire by International Living, Forbes and AARP, as well as many other organizations and publications.  There’s a lot of information available on the Internet; we did a lot of research prior to our visit, so we had an idea of what to expect.  We also had an idea of where we wanted to look and what we were looking for.

We were not interested in Lisbon because it’s much larger than what we’re looking for and it’s very expensive.  We also eliminated the Algarve because it’s a very popular vacation spot, which meant that the summers would be crowded.  We wanted a more peaceful place to spend our retirement years.  So we limited our search to towns and cities north of Lisbon, along the Silver Coast and north to the Green Coast.  We found many things to enjoy about each of the cities and we have a lot to discuss, but we were able to determine one thing.  We want to retire to Portugal.

Jeffrey’s Hook Lighthouse, NYC, 2004

In September 2004 my wife and I spent a week on Long Island and made a couple visits to New York City.  One one of the visits we took the Circle Line tour, a boat tour around Manhattan.  One of the landmark+s we passed was Jeffrey’s Hook Lighthouse, a small lighthouse located along the Hudson River and under the George Washington Bridge.

Little Red Lighthouse HDR Detail and Darken

The current lighthouse was built in 1921.  The George Washington Bridge, completed in 1931, passed right over the little 40′ lighthouse.  The bridge’s navigational lights made the little lighthouse obsolete and it was decommissioned in 1948.  The Coast Guard had intended to dismantle the lighthouse and auction off the parts but public outcry saved the little light, largely due to fans of Hildegarde Swift’s children’s book, The Little Red Lighthouse and the Great Gray Bridge.

Little Red Lighthouse CFX Early Morning Light

Jeffrey’s Hook Lighthouse was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1979 and was designated a New York City Landmark in 1991.  In 2002 the lighthouse was relighted by the city.  The little red lighthouse was operational once again.